Leveling Foot with Mounting Plate, Bracket Leveling Foot, Plate Mount Leveling Foot, Leveling Foot with Fixing Plate, Flange Plate Leveling Foot China Factory Manufacturer

We build the 4010 leveling foot with mounting plate with an upright stainless plate that carries a slotted hole, so you bolt the plate to the side of the frame, set the height with the stud and lock it with a nut. That suits thin panels, tube legs, machine sides and frames you would rather not thread.

Bolt it on instead of tapping a thread. The upright plate carries a slotted hole, so you fix the foot to the side of a frame, a tube leg or a machine wall.

It saves a thin wall. Where a tapped M16 hole would strip out of a 3 mm panel, the plate gives you a proper bolted fixing.

The slot lets you slide the plate. The catalog drawing shows a 31 mm slot, so the plate moves before you tighten the bolt.

One base, five threads. Every part uses the D80 base, with M10, M12, M14, M16 and M20 studs to match the thread you already use.

M14 is in the range. Most suppliers skip it, and machines that take an M14 stud need it.

Plain SS304. No coating to chip, and it survives a wash down.

We machine the base, the plate and the stud from stainless steel SS304 and leave the surface plain, so nothing chips off and the foot takes a wash down. Seven part numbers cover the range: one base, five threads, four stud lengths. We also hold M14 in the range, because machines that take an M14 stud have nowhere else to go.

How It Installs:
1. Check the mounting face. Set the foot against the panel and make sure the plate sits flat and the slot lines up with a place you can drill.

2. Measure the height you need. Measure from the floor to the centre of the fixing hole, because the plate stands 139 mm tall in the catalog drawing and the slot covers 31 mm of movement.

3. Pick the base and thread. Every part uses the D80 base. Choose M10 or M12 for a light frame, M14 or M16 for general work, and M20 for a loaded frame.

4. Choose the stud length. 80 mm for a low frame, 100 mm and 120 mm for most machines, and 150 mm where the frame stands high or the floor falls away.

5. Bolt the plate on, but leave it loose. Fit a plain washer and a lock washer, and keep the bolt finger tight so the plate can still slide.

6. Set the height with the stud. Turn the stud until the frame reaches the height you want, then tighten the lock nut against the plate.

7. Level the frame, then tighten the bolt. Work around the frame with a spirit level in both directions, sliding each plate in its slot as you go, and finish by tightening every plate bolt.

8. Service the fixing, not just the foot. Check the plate bolt and the lock nut at each service, and clear grit and swarf from the stud and the slot. A loose plate bolt is the one thing that lets this foot move.

Applications:
Machine guards, tube legs, sheet metal enclosures, aluminum profile frames, conveyor side panels, control cabinets, retrofit projects and machines that already run on bolted feet.

FAQ
How does this foot mount?
You bolt the upright plate to the side of your frame through the slotted hole, then set the height with the stud and lock it with the nut.

Why choose a plate foot instead of a stud foot?
Use it when you cannot tap a thread: thin panels, tube legs, machine sides and retrofit jobs.

What is the plate height and the slot length?
The catalog drawing shows a 139 mm plate and a 31 mm slot. Send us your part number and we will confirm the plate drawing with the factory.

Why do you offer M14?
Because some machines run an M14 stud, and most suppliers leave that size out.

How much load does one foot carry?
It changes with the thread, the stud length and the plate fixing. Send us the frame load and the number of feet and we will confirm the figure.

Can you make a plate foot in another size?
Yes. Send the base, the thread, the stud length and the plate drawing you need, and our engineers will quote it.